how to distinguish the sex of cats

•November 27, 2009 • Leave a Comment

Establishing gender

Establishing the gender of a cat is not an easy thing to do. In fact, many breeders will freely admit that they make a mistake from time to time. The difficulty arises because cats’ genital areas look remarkably similar whether the cat is male or female. There is no convenient obvious difference in colouring or appearance. Unlike dogs, a tomcat’s penis are not distended. Both female and male cats have nipples. For this reason many breeders will only sex their cats after 8 weeks when anatomical differences have become more obvious, but some breeders reckon that kittens just after birth are easiest to sort.

So how does one differentiate between a male and female kitten? The diagram below shows how the genital area differs between the sexes. There are two major differences to look for: 1. the shape of the vulva, more elongated with a definite slit, vs penis (round); 2. the distance from the anus. In male kittens, the distance between the anus and the penis is larger to allow the space for the scrotum.

To determine the sex of a kitten, put the cat on the table and lift up the tail. The genital areas are very close to the base of the tail with the anus immediately under the tail. In the male kitten, the scrotum is located below the anus and above the back of the hind legs. The penis is immediately below the scrotum, and it is not visible. In females the vulva is located below the anus and above the back legs. If you have a number of mixed (male/female) kittens compare the kittens side by side. That way the differences will be much easier to spot.

With older cats, you can regard it as definitive proof that you have a female on your hands when she presents you with a litter of kittens, but most owners would prefer not to wait that long!

how to interact with the cat

•November 27, 2009 • Leave a Comment

How kittens interact with humans

For anyone who has a cat it is clear that every cat has its own very distinct personality. Although there is some cat behaviour which is standard for the species, cats are as individual as their humans. One of the many intriguing things about cats is that, although they are generally by nature solitary animals, domestic cats co-habit with humans amicably and generally form a definite bond with them. Humans and their cats are sometimes said to be conspecifics. This is a term which can mean either two members of the same species, or members of two different species which like to hang around together. Though cats are famously curious, it’s human investigators that have been making the running in investigating the human-cat relationship. There is now quite a large body of research on the subject. Most studies have concentrated on the effects of early handling of kittens by humans, and how this affects the sociability of cats in their later life. From the results, it is very apparent that early interaction with humans is very important for a close human-cat relationship.

During a kitten’s early development, there is a ‘sensitive period’ when the basic patterns of a cat’s behaviour are formed. In a kitten the sensitive period is between the second and the seventh week of its life. This was discovered through experiments which used different handling regimes. For example, in one experiment, kittens were split into four groups. All the kittens in each group were handled by humans for the same time each day and for 4 weeks in all. So the first group of kittens interacted with humans from week 1 after birth to week 5, the second from week 2 to week 6, the third from week 3 to week 7 and the final group from week 4 to week eight. The cats were then tested to see how they responded to humans.

The tests were things like how long it would take a kitten to approach a human after entering a room, or how long a kitten would sit on a handler’s lap before jumping off. Added together the results showed that the kittens which had most to do with humans between 2 weeks and 7 weeks were the most socially adapted. Groups two and three were friendliest, whereas groups one and four were significantly less so. This shows that early interaction both with humans and other cats is important for a kitten that is going to live with either in later life. This is perfectly clear from observing cats that have not had any social interaction with either humans or other cats during their first eight weeks. These kittens generally turned out to be very fearful, and timid or aggressive towards other cats and humans which came near them.

But is the timing of handling the only factor? The answer is emphatically no. As we mentioned earlier, cats are individuals. Even among kittens from the same litter some are more active, others more laid-back, and others more timid. Behavioral testing of ‘active’ cats is difficult because they are curious, and more interested in exploring their environment than socializing with scientists. Timid cats are easier. To test how naturally timid cats behave with humans, kittens were divided into two groups. The first group consisted of what handlers would regard as average kittens, and the others were naturally timid. Both groups of cats were handled for the same period of time. As might be expected, timid cats responded less well. So for example, an average kitten would start approaching her handler within 3 seconds of entering a room, the timid cat would take about 29 seconds. Timid cats were less happy sitting on a human’s lap and would stay there less than half an average cat’s time. In short, you get introvert or extrovert cats, just as you do with humans. But even timid kittens can get used to people. There is a clear connection between the amount of social contact a kitten has and its later character, no matter how timid it started off as being. The longer kittens are handled every day, the better adjusted they become in their later life. For example a study was made of kittens which were re-homed with families at the early age of 4 weeks. This happened for a number of reasons (for example the kitten was rejected by the mother, the mother died etc). These cats received the same behavioral tests as the kittens described above.

The kittens brought up at home approached ‘their’ family members readily and would happily climb on their laps, purr and fall asleep. These kittens been continuously surrounded by humans, fed by humans, played with humans and had in fact enjoyed maximum handling and playing time, which made them completely at ease with humans. However, despite this example, septing a kitten from her mother earlier than 8 weeks is a very bad idea which can lead to abnormal development in other areas. In any case, a good breeder understands the need for kittens to be socialized and will handle all kittens regularly while keeping them with their mother.

Most families with cats will agree that, of all family members, cats respond most readily to the person who feeds them. This is sometimes called ‘cupboard love’; but that does not tell the full story. Almost every feline behavioral response has been tested by an animal psychologist somewhere, and feeding is not an exception. One study tested how feeding influences the relationship between feeder and cat. Two people took part in this experiment. One person would enter and put the food down whilst the other person would enter and stand in the room but would not feed the kittens. The person feeding the kittens simply put the food down without trying to make any contact with the kittens. Then the psychologists tested how the cats responded to these two people. At first the kittens were more friendly to the person who fed them, but as time went on the response became less friendly, and after a while the kittens paid little attention to either person. This shows clearly that feeding is seen by the cat as sign of friendly behaviour but if not accompanied by stroking, cuddling, playing and other acts which cement the human-cat relationship, the human will eventually be regarded as a sort of walking tin-opener.

type – type of cat food

•November 25, 2009 • Leave a Comment

Cat food is formulated to address the specific nutritional requirements of cats. Although cats are obligate carnivores, most commercial cat food contains both animal and plant material, supplemented with vitamins, minerals and other nutrients. An important nutrient is the amino acid derivative taurine, as cats cannot synthesize the compound. Cats fed a taurine-deficient dog food may develop retinal degeneration and go blind, for example.[1]

 

 

Commercial cat food

 

Cat food for sale at an Istanbul animal market

Most store-bought cat food comes in either dry form, also known in the US as kibble, or wet canned form. Some manufacturers sell frozen raw diets and premix products to cater to owners who feed raw.

[edit] Dry food

 

Dry food (8-10% moisture) is generally made by extrusionpalatability, and other minor ingredients, such as heat-sensitive vitamins, which would be destroyed in the extrusion process, may be added. cooking under high heat and pressure. Fat may then be sprayed on the food to increase

Major brand-name dry cat food manufacturers often use primarily grain-based ingredients with animal protein by-products or animal digest to cut cost. Higher end foods offered as ‘premium’, ‘natural’ or ‘holistic’ formulas contain less or no grain, and a higher percentage of animal protein. However, grain-free dry diets still contain carbohydrates, from sources such as potato or tapioca. The starch in those ingredients allows the kibble to hold its shape. Cats have no metabolic need for carbohydrates as the feline system prefers to create glucose from protein.[

Wet food

 

Wet (Canned) cat food example (Fish flakes in jelly)

Canned or wet food (75-78% moisture) generally comes in common can sizes of 3 oz (85 g), 5.5 oz (156 g), and 13 oz (369 g). It is also sold in foil pouch form by some manufacturers.

Owners and veterinarians who recommend a diet consisting largely or entirely of canned, homemade or raw cat food point to higher water content of such food and the increased total water consumption in comparison to a dry food diet as an important health benefit. Wet food also generally contains significantly less grain and other carbohydrate material. Many foods are made with fish, however an excessive consumption of fish (which contains high levels of unsaturated fatty acids) can cause yellow fat disease.[9] In comparison to dry food, canned food is thought to either help treat or noticeably reduce the likelihood of numerous health issues including urinary tract disorders[10][11], diabetes, chronic renal failure[12], constipationmegacolon), and obesity.[citation needed] (sometimes leading to

Canned cat foods in pop-top containers may play a role in the development of hyperthyroidism in cats[13]. This may be due to bisphenol A used in the pop-top can coating leaching into the food, so it is suggested to place unused food in reusable containers to prevent contamination.

Major brand-name dry cat food manufacturers often use primarily grain-based ingredients with animal protein by-products or animal digest to cut cost. Higher end foods offered as ‘premium’, ‘natural’ or ‘holistic’ formulas contain less or no grain, and a higher percentage of animal protein. However, grain-free dry diets still contain carbohydrates, from sources such as potato or tapioca. The starch in those ingredients allows the kibble to hold its shape. Cats have no metabolic need for carbohydrates as the feline system prefers to create glucose from protein

Breed Profile: Cornish Rex

•November 19, 2009 • Leave a Comment

Breed Profile: Cornish Rex



Cornish Rex
Pictured: Best of Breed GC, BW, RW QUAILS NEST MY PETOOTIE PIE, Black Smoke Cornish Rex Male
Photo: © Chanan

Are those cats from outer space?!” No, Cornish Rex cats are not from outer space and, in spite of their resemblance to ancient Egyptian statues, they are not from Egypt either. As their name implies, these cats originated in Cornwall, England, where they first appeared in a litter of barn cats born about 1950.

In appearance, Cornish Rex cats are a study in curves starting most noticeably with their coat which ideally falls in washboard waves. The coat is very short, lies close to the body and is incredibly soft to the touch, prompting comparisons to cut velvet, karakul lamb, rabbit fur or silk. In fact, it feels like a Cornish Rex coat and nothing else is the same. There is even variation among individuals within the breed.

In addition to the coat, this breed has a distinct head and body type. Large ears are set high on a comparatively small, egg-shaped head with high cheekbones, hollow cheeks, and a high-bridged Roman nose and strong chin. The body has been compared to a Whippet dog’s because of its arched back, barrel chest, small waist and very long, fine legs. In spite of their dainty appearance, these small to medium sized cats are extremely hard-bodied and muscular, using their well developed hips and long legs for fast starts and stops, quick turns and high jumps.

Cornish Rex
Pictured: Second Best of Breed GC, RW DREAMSONG TSUNAMI, Blue Cornish Rex Female
Photo: © Blue Bayou

In personality, the Cornish Rex is extremely affectionate and people-oriented. They are also active cats whose kitten-like antics last for their lifetime and who can be very inventive in their play. Favorite Cornish Rex games are fetch, catch and even “discus,” in which the cat uses its hand-like paw to pick up and toss a small object. In spite of their sophisticated, elegant appearance, Cornish Rex cats are anything but cool, aloof or dignified. They are perfect pets for the owner who wants active cats to participate in family life.

Because of their extremely short, fine textured coat, many people have the impression that the Cornish Rex does not shed and is hypoallergenic. This is not strictly true. All animals are constantly renewing their coats as old hairs are replaced by new ones. While Cornish Rex hairs are not easy to find lying on the furniture, they are there and owners will find them in the dryer filter and clinging to some fabrics. Certainly, by comparison to some other cats, the shedding is minimal. Even so, most allergic people are bothered by the dander (dead skin cells) and the saliva, both of which are present in Cornish Rex cats. Policies concerning allergy sales vary from breeder to breeder and potential buyers should realize each breeder does what he or she feels is in the cats’ best interest.

Cornish Rex
Pictured: Third Best of Breed GC, RW KELTYS KICHO NA, Calico Cornish Rex Female
Photo: © Chanan

Pricing on Cornish Rex depends on type, applicable markings and bloodlines distinguished by Grand Champion (GC), National or Regional winning parentage (NW or RW) or of Distinguished Merit parentage (DM). The DM title is achieved by the dam (mother) having produced five CFA grand champion/premier or DM offspring, or sire (father) having produced fifteen CFA grand champion/premier (alter) or DM offspring. Usually breeders make kittens available between twelve and sixteen weeks of age. After twelve weeks, kittens have had their basic inoculations and developed the physical and social stability needed for a new environment, showing, or being transported by air. Keeping such a rare treasure indoors, neutering or spaying and providing acceptable surfaces (e.g. scratching posts) for the natural behavior of scratching (CFA disapproves of declawing or tendonectomy surgery) are essential elements for maintaining a healthy, long and joyful life.

There are CFA clubs devoted to the promotion, protection and preservation of the Cornish Rex breed. For more information, please send inquiries to CFA, PO Box 1005, Manasquan NJ 08736-0805.

How to pet a cats

•November 19, 2009 • Leave a Comment
  1. Let the cat sniff you before petting him/her, so he/she can become comfortable with you. Extend a hand or finger, and allow the cat to touch its nose to your finger(s). If it shows no interest in your hand, or just stares at it suspiciously, reconsider your intention to pet it. Maybe try some other time when the cat may be in a better mood. Some cats just aren’t friendly. However, if the cat sniffs your hand and then rubs its chin or the side of its head against it, or brushes the side of its body on you, chances are he/she is open to being petted.
  2. Pet his/her head lightly with your fingers. Focus on the area between the ears. Use the pads of your fingers and apply gentle pressure. While most cats like scratching, it’s not a good idea to try it when you’re not familiar with cats in general. You might scratch too hard or too fast. Some cats will get fussy if you scratch them in a way they’re not used to. It’s very hard, however, to go wrong with petting with your fingers. The only other thing to remember is to go from front to back only.
    • While some cats thoroughly enjoy being pet under the chin, others get a little fussy when strangers try.
  3. Run the palm of your hand from the neck and along the back, all the way until you get to the tail, then begin again. Apply gentle pressure and make it one smooth, slow motion. Don’t touch the tail, or move your hand along to the side. If the cat likes what you’re doing, it’ll arch its back to add more pressure to your hand. When you bring your hand up to the front, it’ll rub its forehead firmly against your hand to encourage you to do it again. If the cat cowers away from your hand, or just walks away, stop petting it.
    • Keep your petting from the head to the tail, and don’t switch directions. Don’t pat, either. Some cats enjoy it, but some don’t, and if you’re not used to being around cats, you’re better off not experimenting unless you want to risk getting bitten or scratched.
    • You can scratch as your bring your hand down along the back, but don’t stop at one spot and scratch there. Keep your hand moving. Many cats likes getting scratched right by the tail, but some have a habit of snapping their teeth at your hand when they’ve had enough.
  4. Stay away from the tummy. When cats are relaxed, they might roll onto their back. Don’t always take this as an invitation to rub their tummy, as many cats don’t like that. Some cats like it, but they interpret it as an invitation to play. They’ll wrap their claws around your hand, bite it, and scratch at it with their back paws. This is not always an attack; it’s how some cats “wrestle”. It’s not something you want to try, though, if you’re not comfortable with cats, or you don’t want to risk breaking skin.

Tips

  • Some cats meow when they want you to stop, and some meow when they want you to pet harder. Generally, it’s a good idea to stop, just in case.

[edit] Warnings

  • Seek medical assistance if you are wounded due to a serious bite or scratch. Deep puncture wounds need medical attention because of the risk of infection.
  • Children should be closely supervised when petting a cat. They can easily agitate it, causing the cat to bite or scratch. Cats that are friendly to adults are not always friendly to children. Be especially careful that children do not get their face too close a cat.

Cats And Stalking

•November 11, 2009 • Leave a Comment

Cats And Stalking

are superb hunters who enjoy stalking their prey. For domesticated cats, the “prey” can be something as simple as an insect or a wind up toy. But, is it always healthy and normal for a cat to stalk, or is there ever a reason to be concerned about a stalking cat?

A Matter of Instincts

Even indoor cats

have the natural instinct to hunt and to stalk. With an indoor cat, stalking generally is not a sign of hunger. Rather, they stalk prey out of curiosity or because they simply need to add a little excitement to their lives. Hunting and stalking also helps the cat get a little exercise and provides a release for pent up energy.

For the most part, domesticated cats prefer chasing mice or other small rodents. Some even enjoy stalking and catching rabbits and birds. A domesticated cat that is well fed will generally just play with the prey rather than eat it. In fact, it is rare for a well cared for domesticated cat to eat its prey. Many people think cats are cruel because they play with their prey, but this is just simply the cat’s way of satisfying its natural hunting instinct and of getting exercise.

When a cat uses its stalking skill to hunt for prey, it moves quietly and attracts very little attention. Cats particularly enjoy stalking in areas with high grass because it helps prevent the prey from seeing them. This stalking instinct can be a little disturbing for cat owners who are also bird lovers. If a cat has a tendency to stalk wild birds that the cat owner wants to be left alone, it can be a good idea to tie a bell around the cat’s neck. This will help warn the birds of the nearby stalking cat.

Negative Behaviors

Besides destroying the wild bird population with their stalking and hunting instincts, some cats can begin to exhibit their stalking behaviors in negative ways. Indoor cats that are the only cat in the household are most likely to develop negative stalking behaviors. For example, a cat can learn the patterns of behavior of its owner. So, when it hears the owner arrive home, it might engage in stalking mode and pounce on the owner and bite him or her on the ankle when he gets home. This behavior is sometimes referred to as predatory-play aggression because it combines elements of play with elements of predatory behavior.

When this happens, the owner understandably becomes upset. The owner might yell at the cat or spray the cat with water to attempt to make the cat stop the behavior. But, this isn’t the proper way to modify this behavior.

Modifying Stalking Behavior

Indoor cats tend to engage predatory-play aggressive behavior more than outdoor cats. This is because indoor cats are more likely to become bored. In addition, outdoor cats

have a far greater number of options for fulfilling their predatory behavior – such as stalking small outdoor animals, insects, and birds.

For the indoor cat, however, it is necessary to purchase toys that encourage the cat to stalk. This gives the cat the opportunity to engage in its natural predatory instincts in a healthy way. The cat should have access to toys that both involve the owner and those that do not. Toys that involve the owner help to create a bond between the pet and its owner. On the other hand, cats also need to learn how to engage in solitary play, and this includes stalking and other predatory behaviors.

Choosing Toys

Toys that are lightweight and easy to move are the best types of toys to help the cat engage in its stalking behavior. Bouncy toys are also a good choice, as are toys that hand from the top of doors or from doorknobs. Toys that hang from other items should be moved around the house, however, to help keep the cat’s environment different and enriching. Toys can even be hidden in places such as laundry baskets to add to the excitement.

Toys that resemble the natural prey of cats, such as mice, are also good choices. In addition, toys should be large enough to prevent choking, but small enough to be easily moved by the cat. The material used to create the toy should also be indestructible. Otherwise the cat, particularly kittens, will destroy the toy. This is not only messy, but also poses as a choking hazard.

A cat that is properly stimulated with toys that allow it to utilize its stalking skills will be far healthier than one that is not. In addition, the cat will be far less likely to pounce on or harm the owner or the household belongings!

about cat

•November 11, 2009 • Leave a Comment
about cat

 

The domestic cat belongs to the family Felidae, one of the oldest mammalian families, that includes wild cats such as lions, tigers, leopards, etc and there are 38 known species of felines in the world today.

Cats are hunting carnivores with strong predatory instincts, powerful jaws with long, sharp teeth and claws that draw back into their paws when not in use. Cats have exceptionally acute hearing, and eyes adapted for vision in dim light allowing them to easily hunt just before dawn and after dusk.

Domestic cats come in a variety of shapes, sizes and coats and over the years have been selectively bred to establish distinct cat breeds. The domestic cat is agile, intelligent, friendly and affectionate. The cat is both sociable and independent – as happy with its own company as with the company of other cats or humans.

History Of Cats
The domestication history of cats.

Scientific Classification Of Domestic Cats
The scientific classification of cats within the Mammalia class.

Cat Anatomy
Biological facts about cats.

Cat Behaviour
Cat behaviour and communication.

Cat Breeds
A list of cat breeds linked to their breed profiles.

Cats : About Cats


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Cats : About Cats

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